Choosing the Right Flooring for Your Bathroom

Choosing the Right Flooring for Your Bathroom

Vinyl? Tile? Wood? Laminates? The newer Luxury Vinyl Tile (LVT) or Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP)? What’s the right choice for your new bathroom? Her Home™ Magazine recently posed that question to Joe Dubsky, Manager for Thornton Flooring (Sioux City, Iowa, branch). Based out of Sioux Falls, South Dakota, Thornton Flooring is one of the Midwest’s largest flooring retailers.

Of today’s popular flooring materials, Dubsky quickly dismissed wood as an option for bathroom flooring due to wood’s inherent problems with getting wet. Both solid hardwood and engineered wood planks will swell and “cup” from water absorption, ruining the floor. Similarly, some laminate manufacturers discourage its use for bathroom flooring due to water intrusion issues.

The remaining choices basically come down to aesthetics, durability, and budget.

Traditional sheet vinyl flooring is available in a wide range of attractive colors and patterns, including replicating natural stone and hardwood. Glued-in-place as one continuous piece, sheet vinyl offers excellent resistance to water damage. Relatively easy-care, sheet vinyl is often the least expensive flooring option, with pricing and durability typically varying depending on the thickness of the material and the thickness of its (top) wear layer. Thicker vinyl flooring, while more expensive, generally offers greater scuff and gouge resistance as well as longer warranties.

Luxury Vinyl Sheet flooring is at the high-end of vinyl roll flooring. It may be twice the thickness of cheaper vinyl flooring, warmer and softer, and more comfortable underfoot as well as significantly quieter. Dubsky likes the Beauflor® Blacktex HD Luxury Vinyl Roll, stating, “It’s much more durable than traditional vinyl sheet flooring, but less than LVP.” Beauflor’s Blacktex HD is backed by a lifetime residential warranty, compared to the more typical 10-year limited residential warranties common to traditional sheet vinyl.

BeauFlor Futurist Earth

(Photo courtesy: BeauFlor)

LVT/LVP/WPC/SPC has quickly become the choice of builders and home buyers alike. Essentially identical except for appearance (LVT looks like ceramic tile, LVP looks like wood plank), these products offer comfort, excellent performance, and amazing realism. The core material is typically considered waterproof varying from a vinyl plastic, wood plastic composite (WPC), or even a stone composite core (SPC), the latter being harder and better able to handle temperature extremes, which might be important if your bathroom sits atop an unheated garage. Typically, beneath the core is an attached foam pad, contributing to the comfort and warmth, and according to Dubsky, superior sound deadening. The printed layer, atop the core material, is protected by a wear layer that provides a hard scratch-, stain-, and scuff-resistant protective coating, measured in mils. Dubsky advises looking at the wear layer and the overall thickness of the product when considering LV products, “Wear layers are commonly 12 mil to 30 mil. I like to recommend 12-20 mil thick wear layers for homes.”

“Some LVP is smooth, while some is embossed in register, with indentations giving it the feel of natural wood or tile as well as added depth and texture.” Dubsky pointed to a less expensive LVP’s woodgrain and a knot, printed in high definition, which looked exactly like authentic wood planks. Yet its uniform smoothness, especially in that knot area, detracted from the authenticity of actual wood. The embossed in register LVP wherein the feel and texture, particularly in the knot area, was virtually indistinguishable from wood flooring. Dubsky mentioned that the embossed in register LVP was also a bit more slip-resistant, which can be an important factor in bathroom floor choice.

Selecting your flooring for your bathroom can be fun and easy. With today’s technology, many manufacturers offer tools to help you visualize your dreams. Many companies have a room scene visualizer where you can take a photo of your room, select your style and color, and even choose the direction to run your flooring.

As with other vinyl flooring, LVP and LVT prices also tend to vary by thickness of the product. The product has caught on with applications throughout the home, not just in bathrooms. Unlike sheet vinyl’s low-price stigma, for its many practical and aesthetic advantages, LVT and LVP is finding its way into million-dollar homes, often replacing what would have been hardwood and tile floors. Importantly, luxury vinyl planks and tiles, if damaged, can be replaced and sometimes even repaired. In contrast, gouged or otherwise damaged sheet vinyl must be fully replaced.

Ceramic and porcelain tile have long been the go-to choice for custom bathrooms. Both are clay-based, but the clay used in porcelain tile is more dense and more refined. Porcelain tile is also fired at hotter temperatures for a longer period of time, making it harder, more durable, and impervious to water. Due to the materials used and manufacturing process, Dubsky notes, “Porcelain tiles are generally a little more expensive than ceramic, but basically, color dictates most people’s tile selection.” Ceramic is also water-resistant, but more porous than porcelain. While generally a fine choice for bathroom floors, there is a chance of liquid spills staining a ceramic tile, even with the glaze.

Porcelain or ceramic, most tiles are printed with what is essentially a high definition ink-jet process; then the glazing, where an enamel or liquid glass top coating is applied. That glaze protects the tile and its printed surface and may be either a gloss (shiny) or matte (dull) finish. Some tiles also have a slip-resistant texture, which can be especially important for the elderly. Often tile-floor bathrooms also feature tile shower and tub surrounds as well as tile wall accents. Dubsky has found that one porcelain importer (Happy Floors) offers porcelain tile that matches up well to their LVT products, so his customers can enjoy the benefits of both products in their bathroom.

“Tile has stood the test of time,” Dubsky said, “but it is at the high-end of bathroom flooring choices.” One other drawback is that tile floors can feel quite cold to walk on. For that reason, he often installs Schluter® Systems in-floor electric heating underneath tile bathroom floors. In-floor heating can be surprisingly inexpensive when done at the time of construction.

MSI BathRoom Visualizer

So, what is the right choice of flooring for your bathroom? Check out MSI’s BathRoom Visualizer Tool – visualize backsplash, wall tile, and floor tile options. Use this quick tool to mix and match your choice of colors to visualize the ideal bathroom. With a simple click—email, print, or save your favorites to help in making final selections. (Photo courtesy: MSI)

Again, it comes down to the look and performance you want, and price considerations. The following chart may help guide your decision.

Bathroom Flooring Chart

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Cover photo: BeauFlor

Wise Product Choices for a Quiet Home

Wise Product Choices for a Quiet Home

You could try masking unwanted noise with your noise cancelling headphones/earbuds like you do when traveling. Problem is, they’re not very comfortable when trying to sleep, and just not practical for continuous use. Minimizing annoying sounds by making informed product choices for your new home sounds like a good idea.

Previously we have addressed sound deadening construction products for your home. Here, we’ll look at several other key product decisions that can contribute to a quieter home, starting in your bathroom. Bathroom exhaust fans are rated for the amount of noise they make, measured in “sones.” Though there are numerous considerations in addition to a bathroom fan’s volume when making this purchase decision, comparing various fans’ volumes is easy. Broan (a leading manufacturer of bath fans) has fans rated at .3 sones (almost inaudible) retailing for $190, as seen on one of the big box home improvement store websites. A comparable 6 sone (loud) Broan fan could be purchased for less than $40. Whether enjoying a hot soak in the tub or stepping out of a steamy shower, that $150 is a small price to pay for tranquility.

You can avoid the jolting “bang” from dropping the toilet seat by choosing a soft-close lid. And in both the bathroom and kitchen, soft-close cabinet hardware eliminates the annoying bang of cabinet doors. 

Soft Close Cabinet Hinge

As in your bathroom, your choice in a kitchen range hood exhaust fan can mean the difference between continuing your conversation or having to go elsewhere to hear each other. Your dishwasher choice also makes an appreciable difference. Unlike exhaust fans, dishwasher volume is measured in decibels (dB), and the lower the dB rating the quieter it operates. Again, using prices from a big box store, a GE stainless steel dishwasher measured at 59dB costs less than $650, while the 39dB model was a bit under $1,200. But that 20dB difference means the cheaper model is 4 TIMES as loud as the quieter model! Open to your Great Room, that can mean having to go elsewhere to be able to enjoy your favorite TV show. Pay special attention to dishwasher volume if your dishwasher is installed in your kitchen island as there is no exterior wall to help muffle the sound.

Another potentially noisy item found in your kitchen is the garbage disposal under your sink. Spend less than $100 (excluding installation labor) and you’ll pause discussions until after you’ve run the disposal. Invest $300 or so and you may not even hear the disposal operating. Revealing the Real You – Selections for Your Home has further information on how your product choices affect your new home’s price.

LG Twin Wash Pair

Having your laundry room next to your bedroom can be a great convenience, but a noisy laundry pair can quickly turn that joy into regret. With washers and dryers, the noise issue is compounded, as vibration can compound sound problems. As with the above, quieter appliances are available, but typically are going to cost more. And, if your bedroom adjoins the garage (or sits atop the garage) you’re going to want a quiet garage door opener. Belt-drive openers tend to be the quietest, and DC current models may start/stop softly, further reducing noise. (Photo courtesy: LG.com)

Finally, the location of your furnace and water heater will help determine how important quieter, pricier models would be for you. If your mechanicals are located near bedrooms or just off a living space, what are your options for minimizing such noise? Electric furnaces are typically quieter than gas, two-stage furnaces are quieter than one-stage models, and variable-speed furnaces quieter compared to single-speed units. Similarly, electric water heaters are usually quieter than gas models, and tankless water heaters typically make less noise than conventional tank-type heaters.

It’s an interesting paradox – on one hand we’re striving to achieve serenity by minimizing unwanted noise; on the other we’re ushering in sounds to our environments, typically through media. Smart solutions give you control over the volumes. Talk with your builder, quiet product options should be strong considerations. Savvy builders have recognized this and done the research for you, with some even offering a “Serenity Package,” an option bundle that includes quiet products throughout your home, making your choice easy.

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(Product spotlights are for informational purposes only.)

Building a Quiet Home – Construction Aspects

Building a Quiet Home – Construction Aspects

Aesthetics… price… livability… there are many competing priorities when building a new home, and unfortunately, building a quiet home isn’t atop very many people’s lists. Yet, with many of the most effective solutions for reducing noise best undertaken during your home’s construction, consideration now can help avoid regrets later.

Essentially, noise either comes from outside of your home or within. There may be little you can do to minimize traffic or neighborhood noises such as lawn mowers, barking dogs, and children playing, but better windows and doors, air sealing, and insulation all contribute to reducing external noise entering your home. Double- and triple-pane windows block noise better than single-pane. Reduce air (and, therefore, sound) infiltration through extensive use of caulking, or opt for expanding spray foam insulation to seal joints and penetrations in and around exterior walls. Once the home has been well-sealed, you can specify sound-deadening insulation between the studs for a much more serene home. Alternatively, homes built with concrete exterior walls, and especially insulated concrete form (ICF) walls are inherently more peaceful regarding external noise than typical wood construction.

Equally important is reducing unwanted noise created within the home. We will deal with home design issues and choosing quieter products for the home in upcoming posts. For now, we will consider approaches for blocking unwanted sound, and for absorbing those irritating noises best addressed when building.

Whether it’s toilets flushing, the washing machine, media entertainment, or loud discussions, unwanted noise from adjacent rooms in your home spreads freely until those sound waves run into something. Think about the difference just closing your home office door makes. But did you know a solid core door will block approximately twice as much sound as its hollow core counterpart? Solid core doors are more expensive, so you may want to carefully choose where to opt for these. Additionally, weather-stripping around the door and adding a sweep at the bottom of the door to fill the gap between the door and the flooring will make noticeable differences.

The drywall on your son’s bedroom wall and the drywall on your bedroom’s side of that wall muffle noise significantly but that may not be quiet enough. Fortunately, several fixes are available. A double layer of drywall is one of the more common approaches. Rather than standard drywall, noise-deadening drywall such as Quiet Rock® and SoundBreak® XP® can be used. Between the studs and drywall, SOUNDSTOP®, a ½” soundproofing fiberboard tacked to the wall and/or ceiling framing studs and then covered by the drywall, is highly effective. 

SoundBreak XP - bedroom

Photo courtesy: Ask for Purple

Acoustiblok®, an 1/8″-thick, flexible sound proofing mat, which transforms and dissipates sound and vibration into inaudible friction energy, according to the manufacturer. Insulating standard interior walls with a sound-deadening insulation is another option. Along with any of these approaches, seal wall penetrations and drywall seams with an acoustic caulk such as QuietZone® Acoustic Sealant.

Sometimes the sound is coming between floors. Home theatres are popular in basements, which naturally tend to be darker environments. In a two-story home, it may be hard for your kids to get to sleep upstairs while the party’s still going on in your great room. And if there is living space over your garage, the sound of the garage door opener operating can be disruptive.

Some of the solutions used for reducing sound coming through walls, such as insulating the cavities, sound deadening drywall, or SOUNDSTOP and Acoustiblok sound barriers, can be used for diminishing sound travel between floors. And, as with walls, acoustic caulking around penetrations and cracks will help. Additionally, sound-dampening glue can be used under floors. Flooring material is also one of the more obvious areas where sound absorbing options come into play. Within a room, sound waves bounce off hard surfaces such as tile and hardwood, while carpeting and luxury vinyl products are much quieter. An acoustical underlayment can be added for an extra measure of quiet. Similarly, acoustical underlayment, carpeting plus pad, or luxury vinyl products, help absorb sound transmission between floors. If you do opt for hard surface flooring, heavy area rugs may help reduce sound.

Having the opportunity to consider spending a little more to achieve serenity is just one of the many benefits of buying a new home rather than a resale house. As we learned during the COVID-19 outbreak, peace and quiet in our homes is truly a blessing. Talk with your builder about the various soundproofing measures they recommend. You’ll be glad you did!

Next time – Achieving a quieter home through design!

Last week’s post: Quiet Homes – Your Health Depends on It!

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Cover photo: <a href=’https://www.freepik.com/photos/book’>Book photo created by Racool_studio – www.freepik.com</a>

What Your Home Says About You

What Your Home Says About You

You have found what just might be the perfect home plan. You love to entertain and admittedly, when visitors say, “Wow!” or “I love your home,” it feels good. You also enjoy being outside as much as indoors. The home doesn’t have to be large. From what you’ve seen online, 1,500 square foot with at least two bedrooms and bathrooms should work, but the 2020 COVID-19 pandemic taught you there also has to be space for working from home. You’ve kind of “mentally moved in” to the Carter (plan #50015). You want your home to make a statement, and the Carter’s exterior is as stunning as its views from the front entry. Out the back, there are twin covered outdoor living spaces – one for entertaining and one for relaxing. You love the big closet in your bedroom suite and the convenience of its connection with the laundry room as well as its separation from the second bedroom. You order the study print* and get the pricing back from your builder. It’s higher that what you expected and at the top end of what you’re willing to spend, but still doable.

The Carter (below), comes with both 2- and 3-car garage layouts. The curving wall of windows out the back, open layout, and curving kitchen peninsula/eating bar make this a very memorable home!

A resale home comes on the market that seems almost too good to be true. Priced a little bit lower, it’s considerably larger than the Carter, with three bedrooms and three bathrooms. You schedule a walk-through. The home fits right in with the rest of the neighborhood. Very traditional. The mature landscaping is a plus, though the shrubs in front have gotten woody and need attention. There’s a little bit of tile in the front entry, flanked by the open dining room on the left. Straight ahead is the living room with a higher ceiling. You realize the other ceilings are lower than new model homes you had walked through, probably eight-foot high. The breakfast area is visible through an entrance at the back of the living room, but the kitchen is closed off. Some of the appliances are new as is the kitchen sink and laminate flooring. You find out there had been a dishwasher leak and wonder about further damage or mold. There are a decent number of cabinets and amount of prep space, but no island and just a two-foot pantry cabinet. The breakfast area also has an entrance to the family room, which also isn’t open to the kitchen. You like the secondary bedrooms being on one side of the home, in front of the family room, and your suite being on the other side, behind the garage. There’s a big whirlpool tub in your bathroom, but a smaller shower than what you want. Overall, it’s a nice house – simple and functional… but unremarkable.

New vs. used. As in this example, so often that decision comes down to what you want, value, and the tradeoffs you are willing to live with. Purchasing a resale home means inheriting the former owner’s choices. Are your tastes the same as theirs? When you walk into a room, will it make you smile, or bring to mind the changes you would like to make? The long drapes in that resale home provide privacy, but you want easy-clean cellular shades. Mauve was their primary color; you want to see tones of gray. The natural oak cabinets are fine, but they would look better, and you could do more with the kitchen if they were painted. And those basic, boring lighting fixtures appear to have been an afterthought. You find yourself asking, “What were they thinking?” when it comes to all of the different flooring in the home.

Below: Examples of modern design and product choices. (photo credits: Renee D. Calvin Photography)

Range Hood - Strasser
Cabinetry - Strasser
Light Fixture - Strasser

As with studying home plans, one of the benefits of looking at resale homes is discovering what you like, as well as what you don’t particularly care for. The amenities that will make your home “just right.” Harmonizing design with innovative product solutions that reflect you and your priorities. 

The exterior styling, colors, details; the floor plan layout, thoughtful design touches and amenities; the products used, particularly finishes such as flooring, colors, cabinetry, countertops, and lighting; all of these speak volumes about you, the homeowner. They reveal your priorities, values, and aspirations. What others see – is that who you really are, or the home’s prior owners? 

Finally, how will the home you purchase make you feel? New carries a distinct status as compared to used. Opting for a new home allows you the opportunity to get exactly what you want, which appeals to most of us. So much in our lives are outside of our ability to control. We have to play the cards we’re dealt. That’s not the case when we can choose to purchase a brand-new home rather than a resale listing. New home buyers have much more control over their purchase, the design, neighborhood, products used, construction quality, etc. 

*Study Print: A complete set of drawings to use for estimating purposes only. When you join our BudgetWise Bundle℠ program, you can receive up to five study sets for just $100 each. It’s a great way to narrow down your favorite plans to get construction estimates without breaking the bank!

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Cover photo: <a href=’https://www.freepik.com/photos/food’>Food photo created by mego-studio – www.freepik.com</a>

Building a Stronger, Safer Home

Building a Stronger, Safer Home

How your choices affect the cost of your new home.

People expect their new home to be a strong, safe, well-built structure. After all, isn’t that what building codes are for? Well, the answer is YES…and NO. Building codes do establish some minimum performance criteria. But codes vary from location to location; they vary in their interpretation, inspection, and enforcement; and the most likely perils vary geographically.

As homeowner insurance premiums rise to cover ever-increasing claims, paying attention to stronger and safer construction details can pay off in reduced insurance premiums as well as peace of mind. And, many of the decisions to be made in this area are realistic only when the home is being built. The types of perils we are most likely to encounter are grouped below into three main areas: natural disasters; fire and water damage; and personal security.

NATURAL DISASTERS

High Winds

It doesn’t have to be a tornado or hurricane. Every year, high winds cause billions of dollars in damage to homes across the country. Essentially, when wind strikes against your home, several unfortunate things can happen. Your home can be lifted up and be slid off its foundation. Wind forced up under the eaves of your roof may tear the roof off. Wind can also cause the house to rack (lean) or cause an upper floor to shift where it is connected to the main floor.

 

Illustration courtesy of Simpson Strong-Tie.
(Click on image to enlarge.)

Simpson Strong-Tie Wind Graphic

The solution is to create a strong structure by providing what is called a “continuous load path.” This means making sure the roof is strongly attached to the walls; the first and second stories (of a two-story home) are reinforced where they connect; and that the connections for the home to its foundation are strong and secure.

Certain types of building systems, such as concrete wall systems and Structurally Insulated Panels (SIP), are inherently stronger than conventional “stick-framing.” Yet, attention must still be paid to properly attaching the roof (and how SIP wall panels are attached to the foundation).

The Simpson Strong-Tie company, manufacturer of metal connectors used in home building, has developed a prescriptive method for building homes to withstand varying levels of high winds. For less than $1,000 more for a typical-size new home, additional connectors will make it much more likely to withstand high winds.

Siding and Sheathing

In strong winds, debris, tree branches, etc., can be turned into dangerous projectiles. The insurance industry has shot
2” x 4” wood studs out of a cannon at 80 mph at common exterior wall structures. Masonry siding materials have fared well, but they’re typically more expensive and may only be used on the front of the house, if at all. The 2” x 4”s more easily penetrated other siding materials.

There are a wide variety of siding materials available today, the most popular of which include vinyl, hardboard, fiber-cement, and engineered wood. Fiber cement and engineered wood tend to better survive severe weather, and various levels of wind and impact resistance can be found in each category. As with roof coverings, high wind and impact rated siding may qualify for homeowner insurance discounts. Talk to your insurance agent.

The exterior wall sheathing (the material attached to the outside of the framing studs) is your next line of defense after the siding. Insulating rigid foam sheathing, while beneficial for energy efficiency, provides little protection against airborne projectiles. Engineered wood (plywood or OSB) are better choices. And, in the face of strong winds or seismic disturbances, properly nailed engineered wood sheathing also adds structural rigidity to the walls.

Windows

If extreme pressures from high winds cause a window to fail or airborne debris shatters the glass, the damage, particularly from water, can be extensive. Especially in coastal areas or those along “tornado alley,” windows with high design pressures or windows with impact-rated glass can be a wise choice. Functional storm shutters and storm screens are other solutions for window protection.

FIRE AND WATER DAMAGE

Fire Damage

There were approximately 380,000 residential fires in 2018 in the U.S., according to FEMA. Several prudent measures can greatly reduce your home’s risks associated with fire. Outside, the materials used on the exterior of your home can reduce the likelihood of wildfire igniting your home. Non-combustible materials are best: fiber cement siding; tile, metal, slate, concrete, or fire-rated asphalt shingles, etc.

Inside your home, building codes require smoke detectors, which may provide precious additional seconds for your escape. Create a family escape plan and rehearse it (including the meeting spot outdoors where you will rendezvous). Consider especially how people will escape second-floor rooms if hallway access is blocked. In the kitchen, a fire extinguisher is recommended. Be sure it is rated for all types of fires (grease, electrical, etc.).

Water Damage

According to the Insurance Information Institute, more than one in fifty homes in the U.S. experience extensive non-weather-related water damage each year. While there is little we can do to protect our homes from a nearby river overflowing its banks, much of the flooding we encounter is due to leaks that occur within our homes. Sinks, toilets, and bathtubs overflow… washing machine hoses burst… water heater tanks rupture… all spelling disaster.

Water leak detection + automatic water shut-off devices are quickly becoming popular. As the name suggests, such systems typically consist of small water sensors placed where catastrophic leaks might occur (laundry, baths, water heater, kitchen). If these remote sensors get wet, they send an electronic signal to your smart phone and/or a shut-off device that turns off water to all parts of the home. The bottom line? You have a little puddle to clean up, not a flood!

Roost Smart Sensor System

(Click on image to enlarge.)

Roost Wi-Fi enabled Smart Sensor detects water leaks and sends an alert to your smartphone. (Photo courtesy of Roost)

PERSONAL SECURITY

Almost 300,000 homes are broken into every year in the U.S. According to law enforcement agencies, most unlawful entry is through doorways. The first, and most obvious step is to have dead bolt locks on all exterior doors, including the door from the garage into the home.

Exterior Doors and Locks

Three types of failures may occur when thieves attempt to kick in a door:

  • Poorly built doors will simply break apart under stress. High quality steel, fiberglass, or solid wood doors significantly reduce the chance of this occurrence.
  • Second, the strike, latch, or bolt can fail. Look for American National Standards Institute (ANSI) grading on the locking hardware. A grade 1 is strongest, offering the best protection, but more expensive. Grade 2 and 3 are acceptable in non-critical areas. Avoid locks with no grade at all. Also look for heavy gauge strike plates.
  • Third, the mounting hinges can pull away from the door frame. The best defense here is to use ANSI Grade 2 or better rated hinges and long 3” screws to secure the hinge to the doorframe. (And, if the door swings outward, be sure to use non-removable hinge pins!)

If thieves do not have to be concerned about making noise, they may drill a lock to gain access to your home. Some manufacturers have taken special precautions to safeguard against having their locks drilled; UL-437 rated locks meet universal standards for drill and pick resistance.

Lighting

Lighting is one of the best deterrents to break-in. ‘Lightscaping’ is a term used to describe exterior lighting for both aesthetic value and security. A well-lit house presents a much higher risk of being seen and is therefore a less desirable target.

Lightscaping systems can be powered by either regular household current (120 volt) or low voltage (24 volt) supply. Low voltage systems can be less expensive to purchase and install, use only 1/3 as much power as household current systems, and are safer in the event of a cut or exposed wire.

Motion-activated light fixtures are an excellent alternative. The sudden presence of light can be enough to scare off thieves and can also grab the attention of anyone else in the neighborhood.

Whole House Surge Protection

With more and more products in our homes utilizing sensitive electronics, surge protectors can protect expensive entertainment systems, computers, communication equipment, appliances, and more from sudden voltage spikes or power outages. Inexpensive whole-house surge protectors can be installed in the home’s main breaker panel starting at under $200.

Garage Doors, Openers

Hospital emergency rooms in the U.S. treat thousands of victims of garage door related injuries every year. So that neither you nor anyone in your household show up in that statistic:

  • Select garage doors that are designed to reduce the likelihood of someone’s fingers getting pinched or crushed between the panels of the garage door as it closes.
  • Look for garage doors that use specially designed or enclosed springs that cannot fly free if they break.
  • Garage doors are one of the first areas of a home to fail in high wind conditions. If you are building in an area prone to hurricanes, tornadoes, or other high wind scenarios, consider choosing a garage door that is manufactured and rated for high wind and impact resistance.
  • If you install a keypad for the garage door opener, make sure it is mounted high enough that young children will not be able to play with the buttons.

Theft. The easiest way for would-be thieves to access your home is through an open garage door. It’s almost an invitation for theft! The Chamberlain garage door openers with myQ® Garage & Access Control App allows you to open and close your garage door from your smartphone. It will also alert you if the garage door has been left open or if it is opened while you are away.

(Photo courtesy of Chamberlain)

Chamberlain myQ Garage App

AS A NATION, WE CAN BUILD BETTER HOMES. And one definition of “better” is stronger and safer!

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(Product spotlights are for informational purposes only.)